FANATEC INSTRUCTIONS #2 - GUIDE TO REPLACING YOUR GRIPS

 · Philips Head Precision Screw Driver (or a

   Jeweller's screwdriver. A set can normally be

   purchased from a £1/$1 store if you don't

   have one). The end needs to be narrow

   enough to fit into the grip screw holes.

· Cloth (to protect and rest your steering wheel)

· Set of Hex Keys (Allen® Keys).

· Plastic thin edged tool (like a mobile screen

  opening pry).

· Small container to keep all your removed

   screws, washer etc safe. 

· Place the Wheel carefully face up onto your

  cloth.

· Firstly, remove the two Countersunk Head

  Screws from the front face using a Hex Key

 · Make sure the Hex Key fit is good as these

   screws can be very tight on the first time of

   loosening and covered in thread lock. A poor

   fitting Hex key can result in you rounding the

   hex hole on the top of the screw head  . 

·  Now flip over the wheel and remove the

   bottom cover to reveal the PCB and two

   paddle connections Place the Wheel carefully

   face down onto your cloth.

·  If you have the Advanced Paddle Modules

   (APM) they will be connected to the two

   outside connections (as shown in this

   example). 

 · If you have Standard Paddles then they will

   be connected to the two middle connections. 

   (as indicated int he photo)

 · If you have Standard type paddles, undo the

   two Socket Cap Head Screws + Washer +

   Spring Washer situated on the side of each

   paddle shifter (using a Hex Key). 

· If you have the APM type undo the two 

  Socket Cap Head Screws (using a hex key)

  situated underneath on each APM.

· Carefully remove the APM  by feeding the

  cable from the through the indicated opening

  on the rear cover.

· Repeat for the other APM.

 · Flip the Wheel carefully on its back again. 

 · Remove the six indicated screws.

 · Make sure the Hex Key fit is good as these

   screws can be very tight on the first time of

   loosening and covered in thread lock. A poor

   fitting Hex key can result in you rounding the

   hex hole on the top of the screw head. 

· Flip the Wheel carefully on its front again.  

· Remove the two screws from the top of 

  the rear cover.

 · Make sure the Hex Key fit is good as these

   screws can be very tight on the first time of

   loosening and covered in thread lock. A poor

   fitting Hex key can result in you rounding the

   hex hole on the top of the screw head.  

· IMPORTANT! Before attempting to remove

  each rear grip half (containing the haptic

  motor), remove the screw from the area

  indicated, using a Philips Head Precision 

  Screwdriver (or Jeweller's Screwdriver).

· There is one on each side. These holds the

  wheel, PCB and rear grip together so its

  essential these are removed.

 · You now have access to all three screws 

   situated on each rear grip half. 

· Unscrew fully all the three 3mm x 8mm long 

  Pozi Pan Head Screws from each grip (using

  the Philips Head precision screwdriver or

  Jeweller's screw driver. Again, these can be 

  factory over tightened so be cautious when 

  unscrewing. 

· Flip the wheel in its back again.

· Lift off each front grip half.  
 

 · Place the wheel on its front.

· Carefully now lift off the rear cover, keep the

   ribbon connector attached as shown. 

 · Make sure you do not pull or strain this

   connection. 

·  Place a cloth between the rear assembly and

   front/PCB assembly to protect the wheel from

   scratching and damage to the PCB. 

 · Gently lift the haptic motor up towards you

   from the main wheel plate, but do not bring it 

   too far as the red/black wiring has a limited 

   length. It is connected to the PCB via a small

   white connector on the underside of the PCB.

   Rest the haptic  onto the cloth for now (still

   connected to the PCB). 

  ·  Now push the rear grip half downwards and 

     out away from the wheel plate (note as you

     are doing this, part of the grip is tucked in

     between the PCB and wheel plate. So, its a

     careful "down and away" action) Once the

     grip is away from the wheel rest it onto the

     cloth.

  ·  Push the haptic motor back through the

     wheel plate hole it came from and re-unite it

     with the rear grip half. Place it for now back

     into its holder in the grip housing.  

· You now have two choices. Either: 

a) Unplug the haptic motor from the PCB. This

    is attached with a small rectangular white

    connector on the edge underside of the PCB. 

    Be very careful unplugging this. DO NOT

    PULL ON THE WIRES to remove the

    connector, carefully free it loose by a side to

    side motion as you pull it. It is a little fiddly, 

    but it will come out.   

b) Leave it connected but be careful not to pull

    on the wires.  

  · Next, you need to remove the haptic motor

    wires from each grip half. This is held in two 

    places in small slots in the molding. Two 

    types of material hold the wires in place, 

    sometimes with soft glue (sort of yellow 

    slightly transparent looking), sometimes with

    a harder black silicone-type material. The soft 

    glue is easy to pick out, the harder black 

    silicone material a little more difficult. Just be 

    patient and pick away at it with your fingers

    or something like a small mobile phone

    opening  pry.   DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES

    and NEVER  USE A SHARP METAL OBJECT as

    you will likely  damage the small red and

    black wires. Do not  worry, with patience you

    will remove the  retaining glue. · Grips are

   now fully removed from the wheel.  

 · Reverse the "Removing Your Grips" process

   for re-fitting your freshly re-covered grips.

 · We supply you with a spare set of grips

   screws  just in case you have mislaid your

   ones. It's OK,  we know how frustrating it can 

   be losing screws so we are here to help.

· Two glue dots are also supplied. Both items  

  can be found on your bottom right grip's  

  cavity between the packing card and the grip 

   in a small self-sealed bag.

· For re-attaching your haptic motor, cut one of 

  the glue dots in half, after placing the wires 

  back into each slot, fill it with a glue dot. This

  will retain the wire.

· When refitting each grip rear half, be careful 

  not to trap the wires between the grip and the 

  PCB. Just take your time.

· Remember also, never over tighten the 

  screws.

· Reverse the "Removing Your Grips" process

  for re-fitting your new 3D Printed Pineapple

  grips.

· We supply you with a set of six M2.5 x 10mm

  long Socket Cap Head Screws, Hex key.   

  Please make sure these are used instead of

  the original screws as they have a different

  type of thread. 

· You are also supplied with four metal pins.

   (you will see these on your original Fanatec

   grips as part of the injection moulded part.)

   Go to the next part for an explanation of what

   to do with these.

· All items can be found tucked into your rear

  left grip half (in cavity between the packing 

  card and the IGHTEN THE 

  SCREWS. Tighten them until the uncovered

  parts of the grips come together.  grip, found in a small self-sealed 

  bag). 

· For re-attaching your haptic motor, poke each

  red/black wire into the two retaining slots 

  (past the small "pip"). Use a finger nail or a 

  mobile screen opening pry to do this.     

· DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES and NEVER  

  USE A SHARP METAL OBJECT as you will likely  

  damage the small red and black wires will

  retain the wire. 

· When refitting each grip rear half, be careful 

  not to trap the wires between the grip and the 

  PCB. Just take your time. · 

· Remember also, NEVER OVER TIGHTEN THE

  SCREWS. Tighten them until the uncovered

  parts of the grips come together.

 · Fit the rear grips.

· IMPORTANT! Fit each pair of metal pins into

  the rear grip mounting holes AFTER the rear

  grips have been assembled to your wheel and

  just BEFORE attaching the front grip halves. To

  install two of the metal pins to each rear grip,

  just push into their mounting holes as far as

  you can, but don't force them. 6mm or so of

  the metal pins will protrude from its mount,

  this is fine. The metal pins act as a guide for

  assembling the top half of the grips and adds

  strength to the grips once screwed together.

· IMPORTANT! When screwing the new grips

  together make sure the rear grips are seated

  into position properly. If they are not and you

  try to screw the top half on it can damage or

  pull out thread inserts.