290mm WIDER WHEEL KIT INSTRUCTIONS - FANATEC V-SERIES/PODIUM/LIMITED EDITION

Philips Head Precision Screw Driver. (The end needs to be narrow enough to fit into the grip screw holes. (Note: You may need a second

Philips screw driver if the one above is not suitable for the PCB screws

Cloth (to protect and rest your steering wheel on during disassembly/assembly. Bird pattern

is optional).

2.5mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key). 

4mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key). Ideally long reaching.

Tweezers (sharp pointed).

Long Nosed Pliers.

Small container to keep all your removed screws, washer etc safe.

We supply you with the following: Hex key for the new grips - 2mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key) and a plastic thin edged tool (Spudger).

Remove the two rubber covers from the

red toggle switches. They just pull off easily (store in your small container).
 

Place the wheel on its front and remove the top two (3mm dia. x 15mm long countersunk) Screws for plastic. A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required (store the screws in your small container)

Place the wheel on its back for the next part.

Remove the 8 front wheel plate screws.

Qty 4: 3mm dia. x 15mm long countersunk

screws for plastic). A 2.5mm A/F Hex Key is required.  (store the screws in your small container).

Qty 2: M4  x 18.5mm long "special"

countersunk screws. A 2.5mm A/F Hex Key is required.  (store the screws in your small container).

Qty 2: M4  x 16mm long countersunk screws. A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required.  (store the screws in your small container).

The rear bottom shroud will now also be

removable.

Using long nosed pliers, carefully undo the

M6 thin nut on the two toggle switches. Remove the nuts and serrated washers (store in your small container).

Using the blue "spudger" provided, carefully lift the sides of the rotary knob. Work your way around the sides of the rotary knob, gently rocking and lifting until it is loose. 

Repeat for the other two rotary knobs (store in your small container).

Note:  We also sell custom coloured aluminium Rotary Knobs if you haven't already purchased this upgrade. (See also parts 25 to 26 for more information)

Using long nosed pliers pliers, carefully undo the M9 thin nut on the three rotary knobs. Remove the nuts, serrated washers and clear plastic protective washers (store in your small container).

Place the wheel on its front for the next part.

Unplug the two paddle connectors.

Be very careful when unplugging these. Gently rock them whilst lifting. Hold the female part of the connector so its not being pulled up from the PCB (it's possible to pull this off from the soldering points of the PCB if you are aggressive in unplugging the connectors. Just

take your time and everything will be fine).

For Standard (non-magnetic) Paddles or MPM's:

Remove the paddles only from the rear of the wheel, so you can access the grip retaining screw.  A 2.5mm A/F Hex Key is required (store the screws in your small container) 

For APM's: 

Remove the modules completely. There are two (M5 x 12mm long Socket Cap Head) screws holding each APM in place. A 4.0mm A/F Hex Key is required. A long reach one is recommended to make the job easier, but not essential (store the screws in your small container)

It can be quite common for the screws to end up attached to the strong magnets, on the rear of the APM. Do not worry, just use tweezers to recover them :-)

Remove the grip retaining screw  (2mm

dia. x 10mm long Phillips Pan Head Screw for plastic). One on each set of grips. A suitable Phillips screwdriver is required. (store the screws in your small container).

Gently lift up the rear cover to reveal the ribbon cable connected.

Disconnect the ribbon. You will need to

remove the silicone that surrounds it 

(if this is the first time it's ever been disconnected).

Carefully rock the connector as you pull up to disconnect it. Try not to put any excessive strain on the PCB.

The rear cover can now be removed.

Unplug the thumb encoder and rumble

motor connectors.

Carefully unclip each rumble motor cable from the PCB's retaining t-slot.

Remove the 6 (3mm dia. x 8mm long Flanged Head Phillips) Screws with a suitable Phillips screwdriver.  (store in your small container).

 
You can now carefully lift off the PCB.
 

Remove the 11 buttons. (store in your small container)

Remove the 10 (3mm x 5mm long Pan

Head Phillips) Screws for plastic, with a suitable Phillips screwdriver. (store in your small container)

The LED lens will be in the position indicated by "LENS" on the photo or you will find it still attached to the PCB. Find it and store in your container.

Lift off the LED screen assembly. If it feels

a little stuck, gently pry up with your blue

"Spudger".

The three main front facias can be easily

removed by pushing their raised posts through to the front of the wheel plate.

If you are not interested in re-fitting the

rumble motors skip to part 18.

 
If you have a Direct Drive wheelbase, they

serve very little purpose these days and we recommend you not re-using them. But if you want to re-use the rumble motors, continuing reading....

Remove the 3 (2.5mm dia. x 8mm long Pan Head Phillips) screws for plastic, on the rear half of the grip, using a suitable Phillips screwdriver. You can now remove both halves of the grip from the wheel plate. 

Repeat for the other grip. (store the 6 screws in your small container)

Carefully Remove the silicone from the rumble motor wires, where indicated on the photo. 

Do not use anything sharp and metal as it may damage the wire. Use your finger nail or the blue "Spudger".

Re-attach the grips to the wheel plate using the 6 (2.5mm dia. x 8mm long Pan Head

Phillips) screws for plastic.

Store your old wheel plate/grip assembly

somewhere safe and grab your new wider 

wheel plate. 

Take your new wider wheel plate and reverse the process to rebuild. (the rear of the wheel plate is shown in the photo).

Start from part 15 and follow each step in reverse until you get to part 1.

There are only a few differences in the reverse process: 

Rumble Motors: If you decide to re-fit the rumble motors on our pineapple grips, you don't need to attach the wire with silicone. We have designed the grip 3D prints so you can push the wires into the slots.  Use your finger nail or "Spudger" to do this. Once again do not use anything sharp and metal to do so, as you may damage the wires.

IMPORTANT NOTE! Make sure you maximise the wire length from the grips so there are no issues with them reaching their plug-in connectors on the PCB. We have found that wire lengths can vary, so it may be possible you have to bypass using the retaining t-slots on the PCB and just run the wires direct. 

IMPORTANT NOTE! We recommend you loosen off the grip screws when fitting the rear case of the wheel. This will facilitate assembly so that the top of the rear cover has flexibility to fit between the two sets of grips. 

New Pineapple Grips: When Fitting the pineapple grips, make sure you use the 4 metal pins provided. Two per grip side, these fit into the rear halves AFTER you have attached the rear halves to the Wheel Plate. Also make sure you use the six screws provided, as our fasteners are different to the originals (we use engineering screws with threads that screw into brass inserts in the grips. The original Fanatec grips use screws with a course thread, designed to screw straight into the grips plastics, so make sure you do not use the original screws on the new pineapple grips)

MPM or APM:

For the MPM's and APM's, simply swap out the paddles re-using the screws on your wheel (APM shown in the photo). A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required.

Standard Spacer Kit:

For Standard Paddle Spacer Kit go to part 20.

Magnetic Paddle Extender Kit:

For the Magnetic Paddle Extender Kit Instructions, go to parts 21 to 22.

Install the 3D printed spacer between the

paddle and metal bracket using the (M3mm x 20mm long Socket Pan Head) screws, washers and spring washers provided). A 2.5 A/F Hex

Key is required.

Repeat for the other paddle.

Remove your paddles using a 2/5A/F Hex

Key. The screws are no longer required so

store them away safely. 

Install the 3D printed magnetic spacer

between the paddle and metal bracket using the (M3mm x 20mm long Socket Pan Head) screws, washers and spring washers provided). A 2.5 A/F Hex Key is required. Note the orientation of the magnets.

Repeat for the other paddle.

Next, add the the top magnetic plate (magnets face down) . It will naturally align itself with the magnets on top of the spacer.  Secure in position with the (M3mm x 8mm long Socket Cap Head) screws provided. A 2.5 A/F Hex Key

is required.

Repeat for the other paddle.

Some further magnet contact adjustment, if

required, can be achieved by adjusting the M5 socket grub screw (that sits between the two screws you just assembled). By changing its length protruding from the nut it can increase or decrease the paddle angle, which

in turn changes the angle of the magnets on top of the spacer.

The Aluminium Thumb Encoder extensions are designed to push on the end of your existing Encoders with the extra aid of strong adhesive tape (already attached). 

Peel off the orange backing (using tweezers).

Align the ribs on the existing thumb encoder with the extensions and press home until flush as shown in the photo. 

Our custom coloured aluminium Rotary Knobs are easy to fit.  If you didn't order as part of your wider wheel kit, do not worry. These are available to buy in our online store. Default colour is white or for little extra you can have them customised to one of 9 other colours.

The hex key (1.5mm A/F) and M3 socket grub screws (5mm long and 8mm long) are provided with the rotary knobs. Just make sure you do not overtighten them on the shafts as they are plastic, not metal shafts. Ensure you screw onto the flat section of the shafts.

Congratulations! You did it! 

Go make yourself a nice cup of tea, sit back and admire your upgrading and re-building skills :-) 

These can be damage from screwing in at an angle or from over tightening the screw.

The repair parts provided are 3D printed.

These are also handed (left hand and a right handed part). Handle with care as the side walls are fragile until glued in position.

Cut the standoff back with something like

sharp wire cutters. Superglue our replacement making sure it doesn't sit higher than the rear cover edge. Use the other standoff as a reference.

These can be damage from screwing in at an

angle or from over tightening the screw.

The repair parts provided are 3D printed.

Cut the standoff back with something like

sharp wire cutters. Superglue our replacement making sure it doesn't sit higher than the rear

cover. Use the other standoff as a reference.