310mm WIDER WHEEL KIT INSTRUCTIONS - FANATEC V-SERIES/PODIUM/LIMITED EDITION

Philips Head Precision Screw Driver. (The end needs to be narrow enough to fit into the grip screw holes. (Note: You may need a second

Philips screw driver if the one above is not suitable for the PCB screws

Cloth (to protect and rest your steering wheel on during disassembly/assembly. Bird pattern

is optional).

2.5mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key). 

2.0mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key). 

4mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key). 

Tweezers (sharp pointed).

Long Nosed Pliers.

Small container to keep all your removed screws, washer etc safe.

We supply you with a plastic thin edged tool (Spudger)

Place the wheel on its front and remove the top two screws (3mm dia. x 15mm long countersunk screws for plastic). A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required (store the screws in your small container)

Place the wheel on its back for the next part.

Remove the 8 screws from the front wheel plate.

Qty 4: 3mm dia. x 15mm long countersunk

screws for plastic). A 2.5mm A/F Hex Key is required.  (store the screws in your small container).

Qty 2: M4  x 18.5mm long "special"

countersunk screws. A 2.5mm A/F Hex Key is required.  (store the screws in your small container).

Qty 2: M4  x 16mm long countersunk screws. A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required.  (store the screws in your small container).

The rear bottom shroud will now be

removable.

Remove the two rubber covers from the

red toggle switches. They just pull off easily (store in your small container).
 

Using long nosed pliers, carefully undo the

M6 thin nut on the two toggle switches. Remove the nuts and serrated washers (store in your small container).

Using the blue "spudger" provided, carefully lift the sides of the rotary knob. Work your way around the sides of the rotary knob, gently rocking and lifting until it is loose. 

Repeat for the other two rotary knobs (store in your small container).

Note:  We also sell custom coloured aluminium Rotary Knobs if you haven't already purchased this upgrade.

Using long nosed pliers pliers, carefully undo the M9 thin nut on the three rotary knobs. Remove the nuts, serrated washers and clear plastic protective washers (store in your small container).

Place the wheel on its front for the next part.

Unplug the two paddle connectors.

Be very careful when unplugging these. Gently rock them whilst lifting. Hold the female part of the connector so its not being pulled up from the PCB (it's possible to pull this off from the soldering points of the PCB if you are aggressive in unplugging the connectors. Just

take your time and everything will be fine).

For Standard (non-magnetic) Paddles:

Remove the paddles only from the rear of the wheel, so you can access the grip retaining screw.  A 2.0mm A/F Hex Key is required (store the screws in your small container) 

For MPM's or APM's: 

Remove the modules completely. There are two (M5 x 12mm long Socket Cap Head) screws holding each APM in place. A 4.0mm A/F Hex Key is required. (store the screws in your small container)

It can be quite common for the screws to end up attached to the strong magnets, on the rear of the APM. Do not worry, just use tweezers to recover them :-)

Remove the grip retaining screw  (2mm

dia. x 10mm long Phillips Pan Head Screw for plastic). One on each set of grips. A suitable Phillips screwdriver is required. (store the screws in your small container).

Gently lift up the rear cover to reveal the ribbon cable connected.

Disconnect the ribbon. You will need to

remove the silicone that surrounds it 

(if this is the first time it's ever been disconnected).

Carefully rock the connector as you pull up to disconnect it. Try not to put any excessive strain on the PCB.

The rear cover can now be removed.

Unplug the thumb encoder and rumble

motor connectors.

Carefully unclip each rumble motor cable from the PCB's retaining t-slot.

Remove the 6 (3mm dia. x 8mm long Pan Head Phillips) Screws with a suitable Phillips screwdriver.  (store in your small container).

 
You can now carefully lift off the PCB.

Be careful with the 11 white silicone caps on the PCB. These may fall off when removing the PCB. Replace the caps on the PCB or store them for now in the small container.

**TIP**  When re-attaching the PCB we recommend re-positioning the 11 white silicone caps using a tiny dab of vaseline, if you have some lying around, and are having difficulties with the caps remaining in place.

Remove the 11 buttons. (store in your small container)

Remove the 10 (3mm dia. x 5mm long Flanged Head Phillips) Screws for plastic, with a suitable Phillips screwdriver. (store the screws in your small container)

The LED lens may be in the position indicated by the red arrow on the photo or you will find it still attached to the PCB. Find it and store in your small container.

Lift off the LED screen assembly. If it feels

a little stuck, gently pry up with your blue

"Spudger".

The three main front facias can be easily

removed by pushing their raised posts through to the front of the wheel plate.

Store your old wheel plate/grip assembly

somewhere safe and grab your new wider 

wheel plate. 

Remove the eight (4mm dia. x 8mm long countersunk) screws. A 2.5mm A/F Hex Key is required.  (store the screws in your small container).

If you have opted for this option, now is the time to attach the two extenders.... 

The Aluminium Thumb Encoder extensions are designed to push on the end of your existing Encoders with the extra aid of strong adhesive tape (already attached). 

Carefully peel off the yellow backing (using tweezers).

Align the ribs on the existing thumb encoder with the extensions and press home until flush as shown in the photo. 

Take your new wider wheel plate (the rear of the wheel plate is shown in the photo) and populate the parts as shown. 

Attach the LED screen assembly and three main front facias with the 10 (3mm dia. x 5mm long Flanged Pan Head) Phillips Screws for plastic, using a suitable Phillips screwdriver. 

Insert the 11 buttons in place.

Ensure the LED lense is attached to the PCB before attempting to assemble to the wheel pate. This press fits into the PCB and should stay there.

Also check all the white rubber micro switch covers are in place.

Carefully attach the PCB with the 6 (3mm dia. x 8mm long Pan Head) Phillips Screws with a suitable Phillips screwdriver (store the screws in your small container).

Attach each thumb encoder connector to the PCB.

Attach the ribbon connector to the PCB as shown.

With the wheel still on its front, attach the top 2 (3mm dia. x 15mm long countersunk) screws for plastic. A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required. 

Place the wheel on its back for the next part. 

Attach the 6 screws to the front wheel plate.

Qty 2: 3mm dia. x 15mm long Countersunk Screws for plastic. A 2.5mm A/F Hex Key is required.

Qty 2: M4  x 18.5mm long "special" Countersunk Screws. A 2.5mm A/F Hex Key is required.

Qty 2: M4  x 16mm long Countersunk Screws. A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required. 

IMPORTANT!

Ensure the 4 (M4 x 8mm long Socket Countersunk Head) Screws on each rubber grip assembly are loose before installation. This helps facilitate alignment and assembly to the wheel plate. A 2.5mm A/F Hex Key is required.

Attach each rubber grip using 4 (M4 x 8mm long Socket Countersunk Head) Screws to the wheel plate.

Finally tighten all 16 screws. DO NOT overtighten, as they are screwing into aluminium threads.

For Standard Paddles:

Depending on which option you have purchased: 

For the Magnetic Paddle Extender Kit, go to parts 33 to 34.

For the Standard Paddle Spacer Kit, go to part 35.

For MPM's or APM's:

Re-attach each module in place with the 2 (M5 x 12mm long Socket Cap Head) Screws. A 4.0mm A/F Hex Key is required.

Again, It can be quite common for the screws to end up attached to the strong magnets, on the rear of the APM. Do not worry, just use tweezers to recover them :-)

Re-connect the left and right shifter wiring to the PCB.

Attach the bottom rear shroud with 2 (3mm dia. x 15mm long Countersunk) Screws for plastic. A 2.5mm A/F Hex Key is required. 

Fit the plastic washer, serrated washer and M9 thin nut onto each of the three rotary knob shafts. 

Using long nosed pliers pliers, carefully tighten each M9 thin nut.

Press fit the three rotary knobs onto their respective shafts.

Note:  We also sell custom coloured aluminium Rotary Knobs if you haven't already purchased this upgrade. See part 34.

If you have already purchased the customised rotary knobs go to part 35.

Fit the serrated washer and M6 thin nut and tighten using long nosed pliers. 

Repeat for the other toggle switch.

Fit the two black rubber covers over the

toggle switches, as shown.

Our custom coloured aluminium Rotary Knobs are easy to fit.  If you didn't order as part of your wider wheel kit, do not worry. These are available to buy in our online store. Default colour is white or for little extra you can have them customised in one of 9 other colours.

The hex key (1.5mm A/F) and M3 socket grub screws (5mm long and 8mm long) are provided with the rotary knobs. Just make sure you do not overtighten them on the shafts as they are plastic, not metal shafts. Ensure you screw onto the flat section of the shafts.

MPM or APM:

For the MPM's and APM's, simply swap out the paddles re-using the screws on your wheel (APM shown in the photo). A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required.

Magnetic Paddle Extender Kit:

For the Magnetic Paddle Extender Kit Instructions, go to parts 37 to 38.

Standard Spacer Kit:

For Standard Paddle Spacer Kit go to part 39.

Install the 3D printed magnetic spacer

between the paddle and metal bracket using the (M3mm x 20mm long Socket Pan Head) screws, washers and spring washers provided). A 2.5 A/F Hex Key is required. Note the orientation of the magnets.

Repeat for the other paddle.

Next, add the the top magnetic plate (magnets face down) . It will naturally align itself with the magnets on top of the spacer.  Secure in position with the (M3mm x 8mm long Socket Cap Head) screws provided. A 2.5 A/F Hex Key is required.

Repeat for the other paddle.

Some further magnet contact adjustment, if required, can be achieved by adjusting the M5 socket grub screw (that sits between the two screws you just assembled). By changing its length protruding from the nut it can increase or decrease the paddle angle, which in turn changes the angle of the magnets on top of the spacer. 

Install the 3D printed spacer between the paddle and metal bracket using the (M3mm x 20mm long Socket Pan Head) screws, washers and spring washers provided). A 2.5 A/F Hex Key is required. 

Repeat for the other paddle.  

Congratulations! You did it! 

Go make yourself a nice cup of tea, sit back and admire your upgrading and re-building skills :-)