290mm WIDER WHEEL KIT INSTRUCTIONS- FANATEC ORIGINAL/CARBON BLACK/ESPORTS v1

Philips Head Precision Screw Driver. (The end needs to be narrow enough to fit into the grip screw holes. (Note: You may need a second Philips screw driver if the one above is not suitable for the PCB screws. 

Cloth (to protect and rest your steering wheel on during disassembly/assembly. Bird pattern is optional).

2.5mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key) 

3mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key) 

4mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key), only required If you have APM paddle shifters installed.

Tweezers (sharp pointed)

Long Nosed Pliers

Small container to keep all your removed

screws, washer etc safe.

We supply you with the following: Hex key for the new grips - 2mm A/F Hex Key (Allen® Key) and a plastic thin edged tool (Spudger)

Place the wheel on its front and remove the top two (M3mm x 18mm long countersunk) screws. A 2mm A/F Hex Key is required (store the screws in your small container).

Place the wheel on its back for the next part.

Remove the 8 screws from the front of the wheel.

Qty 4: 3mm dia. x 15mm long countersunk

screws for plastic). A 2mm A/F Hex Key is

required.  (store the screws in your small

container).

Qty 2: M4  x 16mm long countersunk screws. A 2.5 mm A/F Hex Key is required.  (store the screws in your small container).

The rear bottom cover will now be removable.

Gently lift up the rear cover. Be careful of the four metal spacers that will likely fall from the assembly. Make sure you do this over a table, so you can see what they look like and where they normally sit. For photo purposes we have placed the spacers back on their origin (store the 4 metal spacers in your small container).

First remove the black grounding wire. You need to unscrew the (M4 x 10mm long Socket Countersunk Head) screw from the end crimped eyelet.  

IMPORTANT! please note the orientation of the eyelet when assembled in relation to the central quick release area (circular area with the 6 screws around it). The eyelet crimped leg points towards this. When you come to re-assemble this later, make sure it is orientated the same, as this will help the wire "sit" nicely when closing the rear cover. If it's facing the opposite way the wire will resist the cover closing properly. 

Next, You will see there is a white ribbon cable connected to the PCB. 

Disconnect the ribbon. You will need to remove the silicone that surrounds it, if this is the first time it has been disconnected. Gently "rock" the connector as you pull up to disconnect it. Try not to put any excessive strain on the PCB. 

Unplug the shifter paddle connectors and

rumble motor connectors from the PCB.

Be very careful when unplugging these connectors. Gently rock them whilst lifting. Hold the female part of the connector so it's not being pulled up from the PCB  (it's possible to pull this off from the soldering points of the PCB if you are aggressive in unplugging the connectors. Just take your time and everything will be fine).  

The rear cover can now be removed completely.   

Remove the 13 (2mm x 5mm long Flanged Head Phillips) screws with a suitable Phillips screwdriver (store in your small container).

 
You can now carefully lift off the PCB.

Be careful with the 11 white silicone caps on the PCB. These may fall off when removing the PCB. Replace the caps on the PCB or store them for now in the small container.
 

**TIP**  When re-attaching the PCB we recommend re-positioning the 11 white silicone caps using a tiny dab of vaseline, if you have some lying around, and are having difficulties with the caps remaining in place.

Remove the 11 buttons. (store in your small

container)

Very carefully start to remove each one of the

button surrounds. These consist of a thicker

post (for accepting the PCB screw) and two

thinner delicate pronged legs. These can break

if not carefully handled. 

If you break any of the button surrounds we

supply you with a repair kit which includes two

spacers for a repair solution. The repair

solution is detailed at the end of the installation, just in case you need it (store in

your small container).

To remove the lens we recommend applying

some heat (hairdryer) to the lens area, to soften up the adhesive. 

Do not apply excessive heat.

Using the blue "Spudger" try to lift the lens and its adhesive cut-out template from the wheel. Sometimes you can do both at once, sometimes the lens first and then the adhesive template underneath. It depends on the condition of the adhesive and what works best in each scenario.  

Note: These are both re-used for the new wheel plate, so store sensibly until you are ready to re-use them. Also note, these is a slight curve to the plastic lens strip, so be mindful of this when inserting into the new wheel plate. (it's subtly curved like a sad face downwards, not a smiley face upwards).

If you are not interested in re-fitting the

rumble motors skip to part 14.

If you have a Direct Drive wheelbase, they

serve very little purpose these days and we recommend you not re-using them. But if you want to re-use the rumble motors, continuing reading....

Remove the 3 (2.5mm x 8mm long Pan Head Phillips) screws for plastic, on the rear half of the grip, using a suitable Phillips screwdriver. You can now remove both halves of the grip from the wheel plate. 

Repeat for the other grip. (store the 6 screws in your small container)

Carefully remove the silicone holding the

wires to the grip half and then remove the

rumble motor.

Do not use anything sharp and metal as it may damage the wire. Use your finger nail or the blue "Spudger".

Re-attached the grips to the wheel plate using the 6 (2.5mm x 8mm long Pan Head Phillips) screws for plastic.

Store your old wheel plate/grip assemble somewhere safe and grab your new wider 

wheel plate. 

Take your new wider wheel plate and reverse the process to rebuild. (the rear of the wheel plate is shown in the photo).

Start from part 10 and follow each step in reverse until you get to part 1.

There are only a few differences in the reverse process: 

Rumble Motors: If you decide to re-fit the rumble motors on our pineapple grips, you don't need to attach the wire with silicone. We have designed the grip 3D prints so you can push the wires into the slots.  Use your finger nail or "Spudger" to do this. Once again do not use anything sharp and metal to do so, as you may damage the wires.

IMPORTANT NOTE! Make sure you maximise the wire length from the grips so there are no issues with them reaching their plug-in connectors on the PCB. We have found that wire lengths can vary, so it may be possible you have to bypass using the retaining t-slots on the PCB and just run the wires direct. 

IMPORTANT NOTE! We recommend you loosen off the grip screws when fitting the rear case of the wheel. This will facilitate assembly so that the top of the rear cover has flexibility to fit between the two sets of grips. 

· IMPORTANT! Fit each pair of metal pins into

  the rear grip mounting holes AFTER the rear

  grips have been assembled to your wheel and

  just BEFORE attaching the front grip halves. To

  install two of the metal pins to each rear grip,

  just push into their mounting holes as far as

  you can, but don't force them. 6mm or so of

  the metal pins will protrude from its mount,

  this is fine. The metal pins act as a guide for

  assembling the top half of the grips and adds

  strength to the grips once screwed together.

· Insert the 3 black screw bosses to each rear

  grip in the three positions shown.

· Use ONLY the screws supplied.

  DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS!

  Tighten each screw until you see the two grip

  halves come together and you feel an obvious

  "stop" feeling resistance. If you overtighten

  there is a risk of stripping the holes where the

  self-tapping screws go into.

· IMPORTANT! When screwing the new grips 

  together make sure the rear grips are seated

  into position properly. If they are not and you

  try to screw the top half on it can damage or

  pull out thread inserts.  

Remove your paddles using a 2/5A/F Hex

Key. The screws are no longer required, so store them away safely. 

Install the 3D printed spacer between the

paddle and metal bracket using the (M3mm x 20mm long Socket Pan Head) screws and washers provided. A 2.5 A/F Hex Key is required.

Repeat for the other paddle.

Remove your paddles using a 2/5A/F Hex Key. The screws are no longer required, so store them away safely. 

Install the 3D printed magnetic spacer

between the paddle and metal bracket using the (M3mm x 20mm long Socket Pan Head) screws, washers and spring washers provided.

A 2.5 A/F Hex Key is required. Note the

orientation of the magnets.

Repeat for the other paddle.

Now attach the magnetic top plate using two (M3 x 8mm long Socket Cap Head) Screws. Adjust as necessary in the plate slots, for the strongest magnetic position. A 2.5 A/F Hex Key is required.

Repeat for the other paddle.

Congratulations! You did it! 

Go make yourself a nice cup of tea, sit

back and admire your upgrading and

re-building skills :-) 

If you break one or both of the button

surround pronged legs (examples shown in

the photo) during disassembly/reassembly, we

have designed a repair solution. 

In the repair kit you will find two spacers with

an adhesive strip on them.

Remove the adhesive strip from the button

spacer and fit it to the assembly as shown. Sit the thicker leg of the button surround between the cut-out.

Do not use the button spacer on any of the two outer button positions. The photo indicates this (two on the left, two on the right). 

This is because the spacer interferes with the standoff leg of the rear top cover. Simply swap the surrounds around, so the unbroken ones are fitted in these outer positions.

These can be damage from screwing in at an

angle or from over tightening the screw.

The repair parts provided are 3D printed.

Cut the standoff back with something like

sharp wire cutters. Superglue our replacement making sure it doesn't sit higher than the rear

cover. Use the other standoff as a reference.

These can be damage from screwing in at an angle or from over tightening the screw.

The repair parts provided are 3D printed.

These are also handed (left hand and a right handed part). Handle with care as the side walls are fragile until glued in position.

Cut the standoff back with something like

sharp wire cutters. Superglue our replacement making sure it doesn't sit higher than the rear cover edge. Use the other standoff as a reference.